…after quite a stressful ordeal with the Zambian immigration officers (story for another day), we were finally in Nakonde, Zambia. It was around 7pm. We had no clue on where we’d sleep, no means to change money, no bus booked, no connectivity and yet we still had to proceed with the longest part of the journey the next day. We were exhausted! To make things work, we had to split duties as usual at least to try and put things in order. I got a bodaboda and requested the guy to take me to all the accommodation spots i had in mind only to find them fully booked. The Tunduma – Nakonde border post is probably the busiest border I’ve experienced. This pretty much explains why it was quite difficult for us to get a place to spend the night. Some luck was on our side since we managed to get a lodging where we’d spend the night. The unfortunate part is that it couldn’t cater to everyone in the group. In such a situation, what could have you done? One of us had to sleep on the couch. Sacrifice. Such situations are the reason why i always advocate for travelling with like minded people. Sometimes situations are above you. The best you can do especially if you have no control over matters is to adjust and move. It’s that simple.
My mates were able to find a restaurant, some bit of change to spend during the night as we waited for the forex bureaus to open the following morning and a standby bus to Lusaka. The ticketing system at Nakonde seemed to be quite fishy to us. Back home, in Kenya, we are used to having booking offices, facilitate payments and get issued with receipts while at Nakonde, it was just random people who had a desk and chair right next to the bus passing for bus agents. This did not sit well with us. It honestly looked like a scam. We secured our bus and seats altogether and insisted to pay them the following morning just before the journey starts. Everything that night progressed well. We were only left with changing money and getting a local sim card
We were low on cash the following morning and there were literally no places around Nakonde where we’d change money. The bus was to leave in the next hour. Such situations force you to think on your feet. We were directed to go back to Tanzania to change money. Jess and I got bodabodas to take us straight to Tunduma, wait for us and take us back to Nakonde. We asked for permission from the cops at immigration to allow us to go run a small errand in Tanzania. I mean, we were frustrated the previous day when we were waiting in line to get our passports stamped, we did not want to rub shoulders with them because of minor issues. That done, I was able to get a local line and we were good to go. 1015kms were awaiting us. This was to be the second longest trip I was subjecting myself to after my Nairobi – Kigali trip. We had roughly planned for 16 – 18hrs. If only we knew what was awaiting us! Hehe.
For starters, the bus did not keep time. We were to leave at 9am. We ended up leaving at around 10:30am. Our bus was not in its best state. Comfort was a rumour. We were crammed with lots and lots of cargo. The driver equally made frequent stops to pick up and drop off passengers. Did i mention that the Nakonde – Lusaka highway is mostly in a state of disaster? Ok, the ‘disaster’ bit is an exaggeration. For a major highway like that, it could have at least been a marked tarmac road which is well lit. Anyway, I remember seeing major road works being carried out. I’m hoping by the time i decide to redo that circuit, all will be smooth.
We struggled. That’s all I can say. We were willing to pay extra for comfort in any other available means but we were not lucky. Also, based on the map, we had planned to alight somewhere around Mkushi or Serenje to break the long trip and probably find means to access Congo DR before proceeding with our trip to Lusaka. Talk about ambition! Let’s say none of that was actualized due to many factors. We just wanted to get to Lusaka and REST!
At some point during the trip, the bus turned to be a whole choir session. People sang! It was quite interesting. Haha. At 1am, we pulled over at some petrol station in Mkushi since ‘night driving is not allowed’ yet it was 1am. 1am! Make it make sense. We were actually surprised to see our bus mates alighting with blankets to go sleep along the corridors of the shops at the petrol station. We took that opportunity to chill, bond and reminisce as a team! Our trip resumed at 3:30am. Again, make it make sense! Let me assume the break was mostly for the driver. Yeah, that homie needed to rest.
After Mkushi, the next major towns were Kapiri Mposhi and Kabwe before finally getting to Lusaka. Kapiri Mposhi is the last stop for the TAZARA train which starts from Dar Es Salaam, Zambia. When planning this trip, it was part of the plan but unfortunately covid messed things up. I ended up taking the train from Mbeya to Dar Es Salaam on my way back home and that was another experience of its own! I’ll talk about it in another blog. The restlessness was eating us up. We just wanted to get to Lusaka, eat and sleep before anything else. After a painful 26hrs, (remember we were initially working with 16-18hrs?) we finally got to LUSAKA! First things first, Food! We then hailed a cab from Intercity Bus Terminus and went to our hostel. No more suffering!
Lusaka. Be on the look out for the next blog – Things to do in Lusaka & Livingstone, Zambia.